The most popular lash shapes that clients hope to achieve are the 2 primary ones: the Natural Looking lashes and the Exotic Looking Lashes.
NATURAL LOOKING LASHES
As a guide, size changes take place at around the intervals shown. They mimic the shape of the client’s natural lash flow. The extensions are never much longer in the outside corners of the eye. To create Natural Looking lashes, follow the shape of the natural lash line, increasing the natural lashes by a third or less. You’ll most likely use this shape for the majority of your clients.
As a general rule, FabYouLash recommends Natural Looking lashes for clients who are very fair or over 50 years of age. This look is less dramatic and therefore a good solution for the client who is cautious and/or nervous about people noticing or commenting on their lash extensions.
EXOTIC LOOKING LASHES
These follow the shape on the inside eye but are longer on the outside corners, as indicated in the diagram. This style creates a longer, more exotic lash effect.
To create Exotic Looking lashes, follow the shape of the natural lash line on the inside eye but change to a longer lash on the outside corners of the eye. As a guide, changes take place around the intervals shown in the above diagram.
As a general rule, FabYouLash recommends this style if the client would like to make a statement with lash extensions and do not mind if people notice their eyes and make comments. This style shape is also very useful in enabling rounder eyes to look more elongated.
This technique is generally used by Lash Technicians. It is effective for the natural lash application and involves working your way through the lash line. Select a medium length lash from all layers of the lash line and apply extensions.
When applying, as a general rule, use 3-4 different lengths on a client’s eye. Most clients will not require a length of over 13mm.
You may add a few shorter lashes at the very inner corners of the eye, but always use lashes sparingly, within 5-10mm of the tear duct.
STEPS TO TAKE
- Ensure the client is positioned high enough on the beauty bed so you don’t need to lean too far forward and the eyes will be comfortably within reach for the duration of the lash extension application procedure.
- Check the client’s lashes and make sure there is NO mascara or liquid eyeliner residue on the lashes. This will dramatically affect the lash application and make the glue useless. If there is mascara or liquid eyeliner residue, do your best to remove every trace of it prior to commencing the application.
- Ask the client to focus on you while you apply the eye pads to the bottom lashes. Explain the purpose of the eye pads to the client prior to the application.
- Apply 3 small strips of tape on top of the eye pads to pin down any escaped hairs. This will also be handy in brushing off excess glue during the application.
- Apply 2 single strips of 3M Transpore™ tape to the upper eye to pull the lashes up and away from the eye pad. The correct positioning of these tapes will also serve to spread the lashes on the lash line, making it easier to apply for the extensions. This also allows you to get the extensions close to (but not touching) the eye because the tape pulls any loose skin on the eyelid away and gives you an unobstructed view of the lash line.
- Brush the client’s lashes to remove any tangles. If necessary, use a heated lash curler to remove the tangles, as well as tame any lashes that point in different directions. This will give you a much neater end result. Heated eyelash curlers can also be used at this stage to straighten lashes that are far too curly.
- Shake the glue well and squeeze a small amount onto the glue tray.
- Select a lash and commence the application.
- Ensure you are continually separating the lashes as you work through the application. As the glue dries, it can stick to the surrounding lashes and cause clumping, which is an undesirable look and can cause the client discomfort as the lashes grow out.
- Always ensure the extensions are close to, but never touching, the client’s eyelid.
- Upon completion of the application, remove the tape from the upper lid while holding the skin taut to minimize any discomfort. Always remove the tape from the bottom lashes one-by-one as the lashes may be sandwiched together – if you don’t, it may cause lashes to be pulled out, which is significantly uncomfortable and painful for the client.
- It is recommended that you work back and forth between the client’s eyes during the application for these reasons:
- You give the glue time to cure.
- If you run out of time and need to abandon the lash application, you will still have the same number of lashes on each eye.
- One eye is usually easier to do and favored by the Lash Technician, so the workload is always distributed.
- Make sure you check the lower lashes on a regular basis during the application to ensure that they have not become stuck. If there is a sticking problem with a lower lash, stop the application and remove the extension prior to continuing.
- If you make a mistake, such as positioning an extension at an angle or too far out from the base of the lash, remove that lash and then continue on with your extension application.